My trip to Komodo Island

The yacht is on a port tack and the weather is heavily depressing, extremely humid. On the clipper, we have already finished the race and are heading to the tropics of Komodo Island where we will be staying for the next three days. I am new to this whole race around the world thing, as this is my first clipper race. The boat that we are on is the clipper representing Australia. The boat’s name is Western Australia. We are currently in the lead with Cardiff hard on our heels.

We are heading to the south- eastern coast where there is supposed to be great fishing and great diving.

“All hands on deck!” comes the shout from the tiller man. I rush on deck and help as we near our mooring.

We are greeted by the locals who show us around their village. There are shacks called kampungs which are traditional houses that have thatched roofs and are built with forest materials. The families living in these houses have to work together to survive from famine by working in the fields all day with shared tools from the village community. Some of the villagers beg us for money but most just watch and hope we will buy from the many stores around. We buy food from the market, fruit mostly but there are so many choices we buy various spices as well, to take back to the boat.

We find our way to a tour shop where many tourists are waiting impatiently in the humid weather. Half of the crew retires to the yacht but I want to make the most of this trip and buy a ticket for the tour around the island. I have to wait half an hour in the humid weather until we move off.

The scenery is breathtaking as we travel into the rainforests. There are large vines hanging from the trees and the scent of animals is everywhere. We come to the mangrove trees, and are told they are home to many species of reptiles, birds and mammals. The guides spot a Komodo dragon, the national animal of Indonesia. We are told the reptiles use their bright yellow, forked tongues to hunt for their food. They flick their tongues in and out to sense prey, such as deer, horses, pigs and buffalo. They live in the hot dry islands. I asked why they were here in view of the fact that Komodo was very fertile. The guide pointed across the river. I looked and saw that there was hot desert-like sand on the hilltop. The guide explained half the island was sandy, like a desert.

I look at the time and see it is lunch time. The guides let us rest and then we are up again, following the stream. I see butterflies fly past. The guides gasp and point at a large yellow and purple one that flies by slowly. They tell us that we are extremely lucky to see it as it is the largest butterfly species in Indonesia called Priam. I am thrilled to be near it.

As we near the end of the tour we come to a bamboo forest. The guides explain that the bamboo forests provide useful building materials for the kampungs I saw earlier.

I get back to the clipper on a local fishing boat called a Prahu. It is used for fishing on coral reefs and on its prow is and a carved elephant head. I am greeted at the boat by the crew and told that we are going to one of the restaurants in town to celebrate our victory.

We arrived at the restaurant and ordered some traditional Nasi Goreng- chicken fried rice. This came with Kroepoek udang (prawn crackers) and Indonesian satays that were spicy meat skewers. It all tasted delicious.

I wake up to the sound of water, gently lapping the side of the boat. It is so peaceful and calm in the morning, before the glaring sun makes its way up to the sky. I look out from my bunk and see that everyone is asleep. Then I see the plan of events for us to do on the galley table. I wander over to it and take a look. I glance down the list. My gaze comes to rest on the diving program. I see that there is a boat leaving at 10:00 am to go deep sea diving. I have been diving three times before and loved it, so I put my name down on the list.

It was only 8:30 so I grabbed a dingy and went ashore to find some breakfast. As I headed into town I could see many glimpses of animals darting through the trees and I felt glad to be on the road. I came into town and found a breakfast villa.

I was feeling ravenous so I grabbed some fruit and bread off the bench. Only then I realised my mistake. I had grabbed a green spiky-looking fruit and had ripped it open. I gagged, for the smell coming out of the fruit was horrendous. The people on the nearby tables pinched their noses and shook their heads disgustedly.

I quickly put that fruit into the bin and returned to the bench to choose another fruit, more carefully this time. I noticed that there were name tags on the fruit bowls. I looked at the fruit I had taken and saw it was called Durian. I picked up a passion- fruit-look-alike, and squinted at the name. It was called Markisa. I spooned out the black seeds inside and took a gulp. It was delicious.

Then I picked up a fruit called Manggis. It was extremely hard to open but it was worth the effort. Its soft white flesh was beautiful. I dropped a bit of purple juice onto the table cloth and it stained. I made sure I didn’t drop any onto myself.

By the time I had finished my fruit breakfast it was 9:30. I hurried back to the boat and got my diving suit on. I grabbed my flippers and mask and made my way back to the main cabin where some of the other crew members were dressed up for the sea diving excursion.

A man came in and asked us if we were ready to go. We headed out onto the deck and climbed onto the boat that had tied up along side us. Inside we got our air tanks and watched a diving video as we sped away into the diving spot. The diving video showed us that we would be going to two diving sites. One: The End of the World and two: Manta Valley.

The End of the World was a place for beginners and experienced divers alike, as the water level ranges from shallow sea with nipping currents from the nearby Tala Island to open sea diving in extremely deep water.

Manta Valley was well named as it was full of manta rays, stingrays and fish. It had a few strong currents and large schools of yellow snapper swimming around. We were going to enter from the southernmost point as there were no currents around that area.

We are asked to choose a group out of three, one: beginners, two: medium and three:advanced. I chose the medium group and got geared up. I looked out of the boats glass bottom as we cut through the waters and saw myriad fish, swimming in and out of the coral.

As the boat neared the Manta Valley we got into our groups and were told to always stay together in our respective groups. If we were separated we must find our way back to the group or boat that will always be anchored.

Then it was time to go. The advanced group dived in expertly first and our group followed afterwards. I plunged into the tropical water and took stock of my surroundings. There were fish everywhere; in the coral, weaving through the waves or just darting through the water. I see a school of yellow snapper zip past and I watch them as they weave expertly through the current.

Then the group leader signaled to go down deeper to the rocks and marine life down there. I see fish of every colour and then I see it. A huge manta ray is majestically gliding through the water, circling the rocks underneath it with the green algae. The group leader signals to stay out of its territory and continue down the waterway.

We come across an eel with electric yellow and black stripes. It ripples out through the holes in the coral and I gasp (into my breathing apparatus) when I see how long it is; about a metre. There are fish in the seaweed, all the vivid colours throughout the spectrum.

Our group enters a tunnel through the rock and comes out the other side. We are back where we started but this time there are stingrays guarding the way back to the boat. We swim around them and arrive at the boat where the other groups have just arrived. We grab hold of the hand rungs and hop into the boat.

No sooner have we hopped in then we’re off, straight to the End of the World. I wait in the queue to refill my air tank as I watch some of the crew fly fishing off the bow as we go.

We arrive at The End of the World just before lunch and I jump into the water eagerly, ready to go. Our group leader tells us to stay out of the strong currents and stay together. Then we’re off, diving back into the ocean.

As soon as we dive into the water I feel the current tug at me. But I’m a strong swimmer and fight it until I get to the shallow coral reef. Then we dive down and take a look at the wonders, awaiting us.

There is hardly any marine life (like the “end of the world”) but the scenery is great. I pull out a water camera and take a few shots. Then I see an octopus, the black pattern on its back making me shiver.

Our group leader signals us to stay out of a dip in the coral. As I swim around it I take a peep inside. There is a white-tip shark inside, swimming in circles. Then we come to the end of the shelf and it falls down about ten metres to a plain, sandy floor. There is nothing very interesting until I suddenly see the sand move in a flurry of movements. A sting ray uncovers itself and glides off. I am surprised and make sure not to step on the sand.

We keep going for another hour and by the time I get back to the boat it is 4:00 pm. I am famished and buy some sandwiches from the bar. Then I’m going to the debrief on the diving and filling in the sheet on whether or not I liked it.

I arrive back at the clipper at 5:00 pm. Most of the crew is still asleep but a few have gone into town, to have a dinner that was organised the night before. I get ready then off I head, straight to the village.

I arrive at the same restaurant as before but I order different food. I have some Loempoia (Indonesian spring rolls) for starters. Then some Spearribs (spare ribs cooked with allspice) and some mangga (mangoes) to finish.

I leave the table with my ship mates and we make our way back to the boat. We are all utterly exhausted.

I wake up as the crew moves around the boat, making lots of noise. I get up and dressed then walk outside to be refreshed by the cool air. I don’t want to do anything today except move around on the water.

I go into town with some of the other crew members and to the same breakfast villa as yesterday. This time I have Nasi putih (steamed rice) and fruit. The rice is beautifully white and sticky. I have some more until I am very full then I go outside and wander the streets.

I was walking into the main Bay of Komodo Island when I saw some fishers waiting on the jetty. I walked over to them and asked them what they were waiting for. They answered in surprisingly good English and told me they were tourist fishing boat guides. They were waiting for someone who wanted to go fishing at a place called Cannibal Rock, a place that was known for great diving, but also, great fishing. They were fishing on a little fishing boat called a Prahu, a boat I had been on a few days before.

I thought about it and realised I had nothing to do so I accepted their offer, paid and got into the boat where I got some fishing lines out of the side board. The fishing hooks had three notches on them and I wondered what sort of fish we would be catching.

The boat ploughed through the waves and I felt happy to be sailing, once again. I helped the fishermen sail, and I brought the boat under a steady pace, the wind was strong. We were making good progress as we passed other fishing boats, some diving boats. I guessed the diving boats were going to Cannibal Rock as well.

We arrived at Cannibal Rock and I saw that it was obviously a popular place for there were plenty diving teams and fishing boats and even some water police. I glanced into the clear but deep water and saw numerous fish, sharks, stingrays and manta rays and sea slugs. Then I saw some enormous red and white fish swimming in a school around a huge rock that came right out of the water and cast a shadow over our little boat. I guessed this was Cannibal Rock.

My guides took out some bait and I watched as they skewered the bait onto the hooks. The bait wriggled and then tried to get off the hook but the guides held them in place. I copied their movements and soon had my hook in the water.

About a minute later I felt a little tug on my fishing rod and I quickly reeled it in. As the end of the line neared my boat I saw a little fish (Ikan as I learnt from the guides) on the end of it. I throw it back into the water, as it is too small to eat. I cast out again and haul in a pink fish. I show to the guides and they nod their heads in delight.

At 12:00 pm we have caught eight fish big enough to eat. The guides slice them open and cook them on a small portable stove. Soon we are all happily munching on the fish as we head back to Komodo Island.

By the time we get back it is 1:00 pm and I head off to the tourist centre. I look at the map and see that there is a mountain called Mt Komodo. I walk out of the centre and towards the mountain. As I walk I glance at the map I picked up at the centre and quickly reach Mt Komodo. It is considerably bigger than a hill but I wouldn’t call it huge. I start to climb but I find it hard to find a grip on the mountain side surface.

I grab hold of the undergrowth bushes and push onwards. I reach about a quarter of the way up before I decide it is too steep for me and start my way back down.

I arrive at the bottom and see that the time is 4:00pm so I hurry back to the clipper as we need to get ready for the evening’s race at 6:00pm. On the way back to the boat I have some dinner at the restaurant.

I have some Nasi Goreng with vegetables and hurry to the boat. On the way I buy some souvenirs from a tourist shop and a stuffed Komodo dragon. Then I head to the boat, call a dingy and come aboard.

As I change into my spray jacket and other sailing clothes I think about all I’ve done in the last three days. I’ve accomplished quite a lot and I had enormous fun along the way. I have thoroughly enjoyed my stay on Komodo Island and can’t wait for next year, I think as the clipper pulls off the mooring. I just can’t wait!